The renowned wines of La Rioja attract visitors from all over the world, but it is the pleasures of a cuisine that is firmly rooted in the land that win everybody over. The new generation of wineries and avant-garde restaurants, while keeping an eye into the future, stay true to a gastronomic culture that is based in respect for the product and a deep love of tradition. Is there anything humbler yet more pleasant than a glass of wine served with good bread and a bit of real Riojan chorizo?
Whole families of wine producers, bakers and butchers are carrying on with the task of former generations, adapting to the times but never losing sight from the autenthicity that makes them one of a kind. Riojans love their land and its products. It is not for nothing that they enjoy one of the country’s richest gastronomies—one that knows how to make the most and the best from the land. A generous garden and fertile mountain ranges are the ideal scenery for the cultivation of vineyards, vegetables and cereal, and also for the breeding of the pigs that are the origin of Riojan Chorizo.
The success of Riojan cuisine is based on the care for local products, and this savoir faire has earned them such recognitions as the seal of Protected Geographic Indication “Chorizo Riojano”, or the Protected Certificate of Origin for their prestigious wines. A Spanish saying goes “chorizo, bread and wine pave the way”, and Riojans follow it to the letter.
The old rural life was never easy, but hardships were more endurable when your luggage included a wineskin, a loaf and the indispensable chunk of Riojan chorizo. A simple yet comforting meal that raised one’s spirits after hours of hard labor. Even though Riojan lifestyles have evolved with the times, these people do not give up simple pleasures, and their favorite products pop up yet again on every occasion.
Celebrations soaked in tradition and taste
La Rioja is passionate about the gentle art of ‘cuchareo’, or the cooking of meals that are best enjoyed with a spoon, prepared with local vegetables and legumes, and always well accompanied by the pork products offered by the ‘matanza’ (the pig-slaughtering party). ‘Patatas a la riojana’, with the unmistakable touch of Riojan chorizo, are doubtless the star of the show—a dish that is never complete without a good chunk of bread. No tasteless, preprocessed bread here! In La Rioja, loaves are still baked the old way, with a flavor that evokes rural life and a center that none but the most seasoned bakers are capable of. All of it, of course, washed down with any of their renowned wines.
In times of celebration, Riojans do not forget their most beloved products and the spotlight is always upon them. In a land with such a tradition in bakery and pork’s delicatessen, it is maybe not surprising that the Asturian recipe of bollo preñau (‘bun in the oven’, in both literal and figurative sense!) has been perfected and turned into a tradition in Riojan gastronomy. The locals of each village know where to find the bakeries that fill the streets with the unmistakable flavor of freshly baked bread stuffed with chorizo, a fragrance that works up an appetite regardless of the hour. When freshly made and still warm this is an irresistible delicacy, but it is also a great option for lunch, as a mid-afternoon morsel or as an appetizer before dinner.
The tradition of bread with chorizo took root in this land a long time ago. In certain places such as Alfaro there is a local specialty called ‘culeca’ that is a must in Fat Thursday. It is a juicy bun filled with egg and chorizo that is eaten as a farewell to meat until after Lent. And what about the end of Easter? Sure enough, it is the time to welcome chorizo back on the table, this time in the form of an omelet, and again accompanied with bread and wine.
All of this is a perfect match of products of humble, plain appearance that date, nonetheless, from time immemorial. Furthermore, Riojans are aware that in order to get an outstanding product, many years of hard, vocational work are needed. And here is another common trait among wine producers, bakers and butchers—the passion they put in their trade, a passion that they manage to pass on to everyone tasting their products.
Whether it is the tapas at the bar, the lunch break, or a hiking excursion, La Rioja has a flavor of wine, chorizo and bread—every corner of it. A visit to any local festivity will suffice to test this out, and the village of Badarán is one of the best examples. True to their motto of “Badarán: vino, chorizo y pan”, throughout the summer festival wine, chorizo and bread are generously shared out among locals and visitors. An endearing and mouth-watering way of celebrating the quality of their cuisine and of sharing its virtues with the rest of the world.
